Statement made on 22 June 2009 by Senator Fernand Robichaud
Hon. Fernand Robichaud:
Honourable senators, I am pleased to rise this evening to speak about the World Acadian Congress brought to our attention by the honourable Senator Losier-Cool.
She has already spoken to us about the many activities organized for the thousands of visitors who will travel to the Acadian peninsula this summer. A complete program of activities has been organized for the enjoyment of those who visit Acadia. You will agree, honourable senators, that welcoming 40,000 visitors between August 7 and 23 is no small feat. However, I know very well that, with their usual hospitality, Acadians will rise to the challenge.
This year marks the 15th anniversary of the first World Acadian Congress and the first time that it will be held on the Acadian Peninsula. Acadians from northeastern New Brunswick and from all over will gather for two weeks to celebrate who we are and to share our cultural heritage with fellow Acadians and our other visitors. The historic village of Caraquet will be particularly busy as will the towns and villages on the peninsula where activities related to the 2009 congress are taking place.
The World Acadian Congress is a huge family reunion for the Acadian people. It is a party for brothers, sisters, cousins and all who wish to participate.
In addition to many cultural activities, there will be conferences and seminars where the survival, dynamism, energy and vitality of the Acadian people will be discussed, studied and analyzed and where the resilience of a people will be celebrated.
This fourth congress is a big family reunion, as I said, where the creations of artists will be celebrated, where Acadian businesses will show off their know-how and where our young people will have a special place.
Those who participate in the congress will enjoy an unforgettable experience. They will also learn about the special ways Acadians have of doing things and they will understand that this group of people has survived over the years, thrived and adapted to today's world.
That is what happened with traditional Acadian cuisine.
As senators know, Acadians come from a relatively modest background and have dispersed throughout the Atlantic provinces, Canada, the United States and Europe. Over the centuries, they developed a very special cuisine passed down by previous generations. They worked the land and fished to put food on the table. Depending on where they live, Acadians prepare fish and seafood or vegetables and meat.
Acadian cuisine is known for its simplicity and diversity. Recipes have been passed down via oral tradition, which is why Acadian dishes vary so much geographically and regionally and why some dishes are found in just one region.
Acadians from Baie Sainte-Marie say that râpure is the most popular dish in Acadia.
Those from southeastern New Brunswick say that poutine râpée is the quintessential Acadian dish.
Honourable senators, poutine râpée is not to be confused with Quebec-style poutine. It is totally different. It is real poutine. Allow me to explain.
Basically, poutine râpée is a mixture of shredded potato with the water squeezed out and cooked mashed potato. The mixture is shaped into balls with pork fat or other diced meat in the centre. The balls are closed up and lightly floured, then cooked in water, of course, for a couple of hours. Poutine râpée is served hot with brown or white sugar or, as some prefer, molasses.
And then there is cod, a species of fish prized in northeastern New Brunswick, where I was born.
When there was plenty of cod, it was on every family's menu. None of it was wasted. I can assure my listeners that everything was used, even the heads and tongues, the liver and the gots de morue, which is cod stomach stuffed with cod liver and onions and cooked for a long time to ensure tenderness.
Salted cod is delicious. Dried on fish flakes — which we do not see any more — it was easy to prepare. Depending on how much salt it contained, the fish would be soaked in water to desalt it the night before. To remove even more salt, the water could be changed before or during the cooking process.
Once the cod had been desalted, it was cooked through until tender. Anyone who suffers from heartburn would clutch their stomachs upon hearing about the side dishes. The cod would be served with slices of salt pork, sautéed until crispy and brown, and the fat used to fry the cod. My mouth is watering just thinking about it. Obviously, the meal would not be complete without boiled potatoes.
There are other specialties: chicken fricot is a chicken soup from northeastern New Brunswick. When communities would get together to work, a big chicken fricot would serve the crowd.
How about mioche au navot? This mixture of mashed potatoes and turnips was often combined with chopped cooked lardons and the rendered fat. My but it was good, and we would load up our plates.
Not to mention barley soup. Our version starts with a stock made with pig's feet, simmered with every vegetable imaginable, and is a meal on its own.
We also have our meat pies. The tourtière that is known to people from other regions is a variation of our meat pies.
In addition to sweet pies of every flavour, the most popular desserts are a sweet roll commonly known as "pets de sœur" and another dessert called "poutines à trou". "Pets de sœur" are made from leftover pie dough shaped into little rolls. I do not know how else to describe them. They are made from dough covered in butter and brown sugar, then baked in the oven. They are delicious.
"Poutines à trou", which are especially popular in southeastern New Brunswick, are made from balls of dough stuffed with apples and raisins, served with maple syrup or corn syrup. Cranberries are often added when they are in season, for a bit of variety. A hole is left open in these little balls of dough, which is why they are called "poutines à trou".
Honourables senators, I could go on and on, but I will refrain, because I would like to point out that we also have lobster, snow crab, mussels and oysters. We also have clams, often served fried or steamed. We also serve many kinds of chowder — clam chowder, fish chowder, seafood chowder — which are all absolutely delicious
And why not enjoy all that wonderful food with family? The organizers of the World Acadian Congress want to encourage people to create new ties by promoting large family reunions. These family get-togethers will take place all over the peninsula. More than 90 such reunions are planned on different dates in various locations. Reading the list of family reunions is a bit like reading the alphabet. You have the Arsenaults, the Boudreaus, the Cormiers, the Doirons, the Friolets, the Gallants, the Hachés, the Jeans, the Landrys, the Melançons, the Robichauds, of course, the Savoies, the Trahans and the Vienneaus. And there are others: the Béliveaus, the Chiassons, the Comeaus, the Frigots, the Godins, the Héberts, the Leblancs and the Légers, and I could go on.
Before I conclude, honourable senators, I would just like to say that we have more similarities than differences. It is just that we have different names and we cook differently.
Some of you who grew up in fishing and farming communities in Gaspé or Newfoundland may have recognized or, at the very least, remembered some of these dishes or variations on them. Our ancestors may have already understood, as we do today, that simple cuisine brings out the true taste of food. Sometimes it is the little things that best show our affection. By taking an interest in other people and their customs, we can make marvellous discoveries.
Honourable senators, might this summer be an ideal time to learn more about Acadia? If so, rest assured that Acadians will give you a warm welcome. We will be happy to share our history and our culture, our stories and our cuisine, our small pleasures and our legends. Perhaps you will see the phantom ship on Chaleur Bay or the will-o'-the-wisps.
You know, my grandfather saw the phantom ship on Chaleur Bay and the will-o'-the-wisps, those flames that dance in the middle of the night. Who knows, you might even see the Richibucto ghost, who will be living it up on the peninsula.
As the saying goes, we all have the same history; only the details are different. You are all invited. Come see us; we're expecting you.
On that, I wish you all a happy St. Jean Baptiste Day and a happy Canada Day!